Longtime Mapgirl readers know there is no plaque I will not read, there is no museum I will not visit. A few years ago CRJ and I were travelling past the Scottish Mining Museum outside Newgrangetown and I half-jokingly said, "Hey, we have to go there." It had a humble sign – barely visible from the road – and a narrow band of interest, so it was a must-see.
Flash forward to Sunday when, at long last, I dragged my friends to the Scottish Mining Museum. Actually, they were very interested in going and suggested it themselves (because that is the kind of gracious hosts they are).
We were surprised to see that it’s not humble by any stretch. Thanks to a strong design and a big infusion of pounds from the Scottish tourist authority, it’s first-class. It had a comprehensive overview of the industry and the social / cultural implications of mining. We took part in the "magic helmet tour" (nice marketing there) … it wasn’t quite magic but we did get to go to the coalface and follow the arduous journey of coal mining.
I was most impressed with the winding engine, which was used to move the cage that carried miners up and down. It was massive, still works like a charm and was in mint condition. As with most things in the UK, it has a regal name: the Lady Victoria. It’s an ENGINE and it sounds like a yacht. I love that.
I won’t spoil the highlights for you except to say (a) mining is damn hard and (b) it’s a pity that the museum didn’t feature more equipment from [the company I work for]. My friends and I agreed the museum is worth the time and we wish it lots of attention and patrons.
If you’re planning a European Industrial Heritage Tour, you will find the museum listed (as we saw on a poster). I kind of like the idea of an Industrial Heritage Tour of the UK, but not enough to put it on the My Life's Big List of Travel just yet.
Another advertisement board on the grounds showed points of interest in the Lothian area. Among the historical treasures was listed IKEA. Oh yes. I was surprised to see Rosslyn Chapel there, as I thought it was out in the remote wilds of Scotland. JMM said it’s about one town over from where he lives and suggested we give it a go.
Please be clear: we did NOT go out of any interest in author Dan Brown’s works. I have never, and will probably never, read "The Davinci Code."** Right now the site is undergoing a massive rehabilitation, necessitated in part by Dan Brown-fueled visitors; however, the work did little to lessen the impact of its amazing interior.
To be fair, I can see why people think there are secret messages in plain sight in the gorgeous chapel – it is a treasure trove of meaning, double meaning, and symbols. Very beautiful, very old – I dug it mightily. It’s noteworthy for its masonry and every wall and bit of ceiling is adorned with some object or curlicue that might mean something straightforward … or might mean something archaic.
I especially liked the "Dance of Death" series, small figures that ran along a vaulted rib, in which skeletons accompanied 16 people, each from a different walk of life.
Being made from stone, it is not an especially warm place, and we could see our breath as we made our way around the small altar. We also went into the crypt, which is, as you might imagine, crypt-like. (Tom Hanks didn’t leave any paraphernalia around that we could see.)
No photos were allowed, which JMM and I cynically agreed is an attempt to get people to buy a museum-quality book in the gift shop. At the same time, if photos were allowed, people would be getting in each other’s way, and they’d spend tons of time photographing every angle in the entire place. At least I would. So it’s probably a good rule.
We were forced to exit through the gift shop and made it through without buying anything major or Masonic. I would love to see Rosslyn again when the refurb is done – when the stained glass is restored and the organ is back in place … and the massive visitors’ center is open for full-fledged business.
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** One of my favorite EWV quotes of all time cannot be printed here, but it involved a curse on Dan Brown for "ruining Florence" with his stupid conpiracy writings. So true, my friend, so true.
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