what’s german for ‘barbecue’?

LOCKHART, Texas — According to legend*,  HCB drew a circle with a 500-mile radius around his tiny Illinois hometown. Then he decided to go to college outside that radius. And that’s how he ended up at the University of Texas** in Austin, where his romance with BB began.

Longtime readers know that I think HCB and his wife, BB, are two of the finest humans on the planet today. So who better to ask for Austin advice?

HCB has been texting daily to check on our whereabouts. He said he’s living vicariously through us. But where he really has brought his expertise to bear is in the barbecue department. BB is from Lockhart, Texas, which HCB (and the Texas Legislature) have declared the Barbecue Capital of Texas.  Conveniently located on the drive back from San Antonio, Lockhart was a place we had to see for ourselves. This Hill Country town boasts multiple barbecue joints, and everybody seems to have their favorite.

We chose Black’s, humble from the outside, even humbler on the inside. It has the requisite horns on the wall and the red-and-white-checkered tablecloths. But Black’s features two specialties: Brisket and German bluegrass.

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It’s true! I loved the brisket (although I didn’t get the traditional sausage alongside – simply didn’t have room with all the great fixins). And the German bluegrass band – the Sieker Band – was enjoyable as well. 

 Blacks

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In case you didn’t know – and I didn’t – this part of Texas was settled by lots of German and Czechs. I learned this through some comments on my Facebook page earlier this week. And driving down I-35, seeing such town and road names as Greune (pronounced Greene), Schumannsville, Schertz and Wurzbach, I saw that it was true.

Lockhart doesn’t have a German name, but it definitely has a colorful history and a striking courthouse that anchors a lovely downtown.  Any coincidence that BB married a future judge? I think not.

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* As recounted by HCB himself

** “Hook ‘Em Horns,” HCB himself would say at this point

 

been a long time since they scored a goal

AUSTIN, Texas — The agenda for Austin is simple:  see live music, drink beer, eat Tex-Mex food.  Simple instructions, pick any order.

So on the first full day, after walkabout, it was off to the pub in early afternoon.  The first choice was not yet open for business, so we quickly chose another nearby that held the promise of soccer football.

Into the dark we went, and two men were seated at the bar and riveted to, of course, the football. One had a leonine mane of wavy hair and bright eyes and was the spitting image of Robert Plant.

It was Robert Plant. JMM is from Scotland and knowledgeable about football, so he sidled up to chat about the game while I stood, starstruck into paralysis, about five feet away.

Showco2JMM also is knowledgeable about All Things Rock and happened to be wearing the very Showco Sound T-shirt that apparently John Bonham made famous, and which Robert Plant remarked upon. Robert Plant’s only comment to me was to say it was nice to meet me, which was courteous but untrue since he so obviously wanted to watch the match.

We took our leave and moved to a nearby table.

Continue reading “been a long time since they scored a goal”

worth the wait

AUSTIN, Texas — I first heard of Alejandro Escovedo about 15 years ago. Stephen Bruton sang his praises, then the next thing I knew he was everywhere in the music press:  big names were headlining benefit concerts to assist him with long-term medical bills. He was a legendary figure in Austin circles and gaining notice for his solo work. And he remained on my List of Acts I’d Like to See.

So straight off the airplane, Goal #1 was to catch his 10 p.m. show at the Continental Club.

But that was 10 p.m. rock ‘n’ roll time. Our position in line was pretty good – probably among the first 20 people – but 10 p.m. was long ago, and we were still on the sidewalk. We heard Toni Price’s set, and hope sprang eternal when we heard Alejandro’s sound check.

And yet we waited.

Continue reading “worth the wait”